Mount Ama Dablam, measuring 6812 meters, belongs to the eastern Himalayan range in Khumbu, Nepal. The main peak of Ama Dablam ranges 6812 meters while the lower western peak is 6170 meters.
The Nepali meaning of Ama Dablam is “Mother’s necklace. The name is after its long ridges on each side like the arms of a mother (ama) protecting her child. Along with its hanging glacier, Ama Dablam is also referred to as the “Matterhorn of the Himalayas”. So, as its name says, it features soaring ridges, steep faces, and dominates the calming sky.
The first successful expedition of Mt. Ama Dablam happened on 13 March 1961 by Mike Gill (NZ), Barry Bishop (USA), Mike Ward (UK), and Wally Romanes (NZ). Even though the mountain doesn’t measure high as other peaks, it’s famous amongst permitted expeditions.
Nowadays, you will need a climbing person and a licensed officer for attempting Ama Dablam. While the best climbing months for Mt. Ama Dablam Expedition are April-May and September-October.
The route to Ama Dablam is difficult and varied with numerous climbs. It offers varied three high camp sets at strategic points. The first stretch up to Camp 1 is easy as the climbing paths are moderate. As you continue the climb starts getting challenging within the narrow granite ridges.
Likewise, the level of snow, wind, and the unpredictable climatic situation starts as you ascent. Hence the route gets more technical from Camp 2. You will have to use advanced pieces of gear. Likewise, from camp 3, you cover the stretch around the hanging glacier or the Dablam.